Marco Polo’s return to Italy after 24 years of travelling across Asia and the Middle East changed the face of European cuisine forever. The herbs and spices that infuse so many of our dishes – cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger – were virtually unknown in Europe before Polo introduced them to his stunned Venetian compatriots in 1295.
In 2014, the Western flavour industry is, once again, opening up to more distant markets, but, while Polo and other medieval traders feared bandit attacks and stormy seas, today’s flavour merchants must contend with a major new challenge: how can the potential of developing nations be harnessed without compromising on food safety standards?
"There is an extremely complex set of interactions between the Western flavour industry, and Latin American and Asian countries at the moment," says Jos Stelder, executive director of the International Organization of the Flavor Industry (IOFI).
"Numerous local flavour companies and suppliers of raw ingredients in these areas now want to export to the West. At the same time, there are plenty of Western customers that might be interested in importing from these places."
Up to scratch
While increasing trade between developing regions and the West is no doubt in both parties’ interests, differences in national foods standards and regulations can make effective business almost impossible. A lack of clarity over exactly what the different flavours contain, and whether relevant safety tests have been carried out, adds further complexity.
As the industry body representing the international flavour sector’s interests, IOFI is working hard to overcome these hurdles. Comprised of flavour associations and multinational firms, the non-profit organisation’s aim is to unify global regulations, making interborder trade simpler and more reliable for all parties.
"What we are essentially trying to do is bring certain parts of the world up to standard," Stelder explains. "We identify where local rules differ from the rest of the world and then try to see how that gap can be bridged. The idea is to create regulatory harmony. That goes for imports and exports between countries."
The IOFI concept of a universal flavour-trading standard is founded upon the rigorous implementation of scientifically based product testing across the sector. Approximately two thirds of the association’s budget is spent in this area, with the rest going towards management and communication expenses.
"Establishing the scientific basis for flavours is certainly our main challenge," says Stelder. "We strive to provide the best possible proof that the flavour ingredients used by our industry are safe.
IOFI’s Global Reference List (GRL) – a publication detailing all the positive flavour materials considered safe for intended use – forms the foundation of this policy. With all entries approved by at least one internationally recognised body, such as the Joint Expert Committee on Food Additives, it provides national authorities with crucial detail on which to base flavouring standards and regulations.
"Sometimes it can be a struggle, but we aim to convince governments and other national regulators about the value of referring to the GRL when creating policies," Stelder says. "With more countries becoming aware of food safety standards, particularly in the Far East and Latin America, its profile is also on the rise."
Unsurprisingly, China tops IOFI’s priority list. As a huge supplier for the ingredients industry and also a significant importer, ensuring its regulations are in sync with those of the international community is essential for world trade.
"They are very interested in what IOFI offers and are also becoming more involved by hosting Codex committees that discuss general points on food safety," says Stelder.
"They’re particularly concerned about how people from outside China view their country’s food quality. They try to have the same guarantees, checks and balances as there are abroad, and to honour the Codex guidelines as much as possible."
IOFI has already had some success in harmonising China’s food regulations with Western standards. In 2012, the association’s regulatory and advocacy director, Dr Thierry Cachet, gave a presentation in Beijing to government officials, scientists and industry representatives on phthalates (plasticisers) in the country’s foods – a controversial topic that had attracted a great deal of negative press.
Covering exposure levels in food and flavouring, as well as unintended sources of contamination, Cachet also outlined IOFI’s work in developing guidelines for reducing phthalates in raw materials and compound flavourings. With detailed information on process, transportation and storage procedures, these instructions have proven instrumental in helping China address the issue.
Tailored scientific expertise is also made available for countries wishing to make specific adjustments to existing national flavour lists. Earlier this year, Indonesia’s food safety authority, BPOM, was worried about the use of nine substances that were named on the International Agency for Research of Cancer list as possibly carcinogenic for humans.
"The first people to notice government queries about this sort of thing in Indonesia are the local flavour associations, one of which is a member of IOFI," Stelder explains. "They’ll then ask us for information and support, and to explain to the regulator whether or not these products are safe."
IOFI submitted letters to BPOM summarising the key scientific data, including study reports and literature references. It was enough to persuade the Indonesian regulator to approve seven of the substances for flavour use.
Strength in numbers
The diversity of IOFI’s membership is key to its success. With a mix of local and international firms and associations, IOFI not only reflects the range of interests within the flavour industry, but it also has access to mountains of information and expertise.
"Whether it’s an issue relating to science, communication or regulations, the volunteers that we have from all over the world offer us their expertise. Without it, the staff secretariat simply could not function," says Stelder.
The volunteers also help IOFI with initiatives that assist the industry, the current and most significant being the Global Poundage Survey (GPS).
Last conducted in 2010, it aims to unify the previous surveys of flavour usage levels that were being carried out separately around the world. Once collated, these statistics can be used to estimate exposure to specific substances and inform flavour risk assessments by national, regional and international bodies.
"It’s a very broad exercise. Accumulating the figures in enough detail to share with regulators – who use them as a basis for their work – is a challenge. You have to be very sure of the numbers," says Stelder.
"We run it on a five-year cycle, so the next GPS is to be published in 2015. For the first time, it will include Latin America, as well as Europe, Japan and the US.
"We are also trying to establish a more precise substance specification system, in order to improve identity levels and leave less room for unqualified products."
IOFI assistance is also available for countries that do not house any of the organisation’s member associations. Stelder explains how a dedicated regulatory director travels the world, offering advice on how different countries can harmonise existing rules with the international community’s.
"He visits local associations or regulators and explains how their situation compares with the bigger picture," he says. "We support nations that are not part of IOFI. Our connection to Codex, along with our global perspective, is very useful. It can really help the emerging markets out."
When it comes to the future of regulations however, Stelder’s hope is that the industry has reached something of a plateau. "It would be great if we’ve finally received our portion of rules," he says. "There’s already a backlog in some countries in getting everything up to date. We can still see plenty of work ahead."
For IOFI, the key challenge over the years ahead lies in ensuring the information it works so hard to gather finds its way to the Latin American and Asian regions that need it most. A more connected flavour industry is better for everyone – but it must be underpinned by a common understanding of regulatory standards and substance definitions. Only then will international traders have the confidence needed to push the sector forward.
